Tyropita

Warning about recipes. Read this first!

TYROPITA
Yield: About 50 pieces

INGREDIENTS
6 oz Spinach, raw
1/4 ea Onion, brunoise
1 oz Butter
1 oz AP flour
8 fl oz Milk
2 ea Egg yolks, whisked
1/2 tsp Nutmeg
12 oz Feta, crumbled
2 tsp Fresh oregano, minced
tt Pepper
1 # Butter
1 box Filo dough (16oz; about 18 sheets)

METHOD
1. In a dry saute pan (no oil), wilt the spinach over high heat. Add a little salt to help facilitate the wilting. Saute until completely wilted, then remove to a cutting board and roughly chop.

2. In a small sauce pan, over medium heat, melt the first measure of butter, then sweat the onions. When softened, add the flour and stir to make a white roux. This is extremely hot so don’t touch!

3. When the roux is simmering around the edges, slowly drizzle in about 1/3 of the milk while whisking. Yes, use a whisk to break up all the clumps. Then slowly drizzle in the remaining milk.

4. Bring to a boil for a few minutes until thickened, then remove from heat.

5. In a medium bowl, whisk the egg yolks, then slowly drizzle in the white sauce (bechamel) while constantly whisking. Add the nutmeg, feta, oregano, and spinach. Season to taste with the pepper (you probably won’t need salt).

6. In a small sauce pan, melt the second measure of butter, but don’t let it boil. remove from heat.

7. Unwrap the filo dough and lay out one sheet on your work surface. Carefully brush with butter, then lay out another filo sheet on top. Brush with butter again.

8. Cut in to 6 strips and scoop about 2 tsp of the filling on the end of each strip. Fold/roll each strip in to triangles (like folding the flag).

9. Lay out the folded tyropita on a sheet pan lined with parchment, and brush each pastry with more butter. Repeat steps 7-9 until all the filo is gone.

10. Bake at 375F for about 15 minutes until the pastry is puffy and golden.

NOTES
Filo is cheap, so buy TWO boxes in case there are damaged sheets in one box. Be careful, but no one’s going to die if you tear one or two.

If you need to, you can freeze these things IQF-style after you roll them and brush them with butter. Bake them off as needed.

COMMENTARY
Wow, no commentary this time. I wonder if I’m feeling ok?

Kitchen etiquette for diners

If you’ve ever wanted to “meet the chef” or see the kitchen, this rant is for you.

NEVER wander back into the kitchen on your own, without an invitation or an escort. I don’t care who you think you are, we don’t want you there.

Sure, I get that you want to feel like a big man, or a popular host, or whatever, just because you know the chef and you want to show off for your guests by being “in”. Don’t do it. You’re not actually making the chef happy, you’re in fact guaranteeing that the chef and staff actually thinks less of you, as in “What kind of jag-off thinks he can just waltz back into my kitchen unwanted?” And what do you think that attitude is going to do to the overall level of service you get for the rest of the evening?

Not even other professional chefs are welcomed uninvited, but of course, if you’re a professional I would expect you to know the industry etiquette (sadly, though, many professional chefs are even bigger assholes than our guests).

That said, however, we chefs are extremely proud of our kitchens, our team, and the amazing work and effort that goes on here. And we like to show off and be admired just as much as the next guy. The way to do this is to ask your server or one of the floor staff if you can get a tour of the kitchen and meet the chef. If you put on even the slightest veneer of humility, just about every chef will graciously invite you back.

For me, if you ask ahead of time, I can make sure the place is clean, orderly, and safe for non-professionals. Getting invited back to the kitchen is getting to peek behind the curtain, and see how things really work. I know that if I have admiring guests, I love to show them everything and let them sample things, and talk with them about their own cooking experiences. I will talk their ear off! Guests who know and love food as much as professionals are a breed apart, and it’s always great to connect with someone who you’re serving food to.

But so help me god, if you waltz back into the kitchen like you own the place, you definitely run the risk of getting bodily thrown out!

Beef short ribs

Warning about recipes. Read this first!

BEEF SHORT RIBS
Yield: 2 servings (approx 8oz uncooked)

INGREDIENTS
1 # Beef short ribs (should be about four pieces, 3″ long or so)
8 oz Mushrooms, sliced
2 tsp Garlic, minced
1 C Red wine
1 C Stock (any kind)
4 ea Thyme sprigs
tt Salt and pepper

METHOD
1. Season all four sides of the short ribs with salt and pepper. In a medium saute pan over high heat, sear all four sides of each rib. Remove ribs to an oven-safe dish.

2. Sautee mushrooms in the same saute pan, which will soak up all the fat, and then start to release their moisture. Just before the mushrooms are nicely seared, add the garlic and finish searing the mushrooms stopping before they become soggy. Remove to the oven-safe dish with the beef.

3. Deglaze the pan with the red wine and stock. Bring to a boil, then pour over beef and mushrooms. Add the whole thyme to the dish.

4. Cover well, and braise in the oven for 5-6 hours at 275F.

5. Remove ribs from sauce, cover, and chill. Chill sauce.

6. The next day, remove solid fat from the top of the sauce. Reheat the sauce and bring to a boil. Reduce by 1/3 or 1/2, then add the ribs and reheat thoroughly. Be careful with the meat, it should be very tender at this point.

7. Remove ribs, keep warm, and season sauce. Skim sauce of any excess fat or scum, if necessary. Drizzle sauce over ribs and serve immediately.

NOTES
8oz of raw beef is a decent portion for a plated meal, but chowing down at home, I can eat a full pound of these things, easy.

COMMENTARY
I love a good braise, and nothing braises quite like beef. A braise means low, slow, and moist; it’s the complete opposite of roasting (but I violate that rule when I “roast” a turkey).

The crucial step to a good braise is to make the dish THE DAY BEFORE YOU NEED IT! If you make it ahead of time, let the meat chill, and then reheat and season, the gelatin present in the meat will have a lower melting point the second time around, making the meat even more tender and succulent than if you try to serve it right out of the oven when you first make it.

Fattier, tougher meats work best for a braise. Although I will braise a chicken, it takes a little more care because it will dry out, even though it’s sitting in all that moisture.

Top Chef fans, viewers, and other professional chefs: It KILLS me when one of those “chef-testants” say they’re going to braise something during a 30 minute Quick-Fire challenge. HELLO!!! Not a braise!! For fuck’s sake, why doesn’t Coliccio call them out? Any first-year student knows the definition of a braise. Why are these (supposed) super-talented chefs butchering the language and using terms so lazily? As a mentor of mine taught me: Words have meaning and power. Use them properly!

And now my rant is done. For now.

Hummus

Warning about recipes. Read this first!

HUMMUS
Yield: 28 fl oz

INGREDIENTS
30 oz Chickpeas, drained
1 fl oz Lemon juice
1 tbl Garlic, minced
1 fl oz Tahini
1 tbl Ground cumin
6 fl oz Olive oil
2 fl oz Extra virgin olive oil
tt Salt and pepper

METHOD
1. Drain chickpeas, then place in a pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil and cook until they’re EXTREMELY soft. You should be able to mush them easily between your fingers. Drain and reserve cooking liquid.

2. Combine chickpeas, lemon juice, garlic, and tahini in a food processor and puree until mostly smooth, then slowly drizzle in both oils. Puree until extremely smooth, and add a little of the reserved cooking liquid to thin out, as desired.

3. Season to taste

NOTES
#10 can of chickpeas yields 64 oz drained chickpeas

COMMENTARY
Are you Greek? Turkish? Lebanese? Egyptian? Let the brawling begin over the origin of hummus. Personally, I don’t think it matters. Let the hate mail flow.

The secret to this recipe is something I learned from a Lebanese friend: Boil the crap out of the chickpeas. I used to just puree the canned chickpeas, right of the can, but it never got super-smooth. There have been times when I boiled the chickpeas until they actually started falling apart. Maybe that was taking it a little too far, but the point remains. So anyway, thanks Joe, for the tip!

A lot of restaurants I’ve been to serve a very thin, pale hummus, and I think that’s because of more water, but also increasing the ratio of tahini. But practice this recipe and do what you want with it, to your own tastes.

Enjoy!

Birthday party at Starry Nights

Last night Starry Nights hosted another birthday party, this time for a young woman who turned 30. Her boyfriend had put so much energy into this event, it was impressive. The theme was pink, black, and white, and the event coordinator he hired did a great job customizing the room. The dessert table was quite impressive, centered on (of course) a delicious cake by Starry Nights!

The menu was Chicken Satay with my famous (yes, famous) Peanut sauce, Crudite with Hummus, Sliders, Crab Cakes with red bell pepper aioli, and Gougeres (Matt!! The gougeres!!)

The whole party was a success, and the guests really seemed to have a great time. I know this because the bar tab was one of the highest per capita we’ve ever done. The only hitch was that the birthday girl forgot her ID, so my client had to go get it. But he did, and it all turned out ok.

Rebekah was one of the floor staff last night. I love having her on the team, she’ll eat anything! She mentioned that she loved my hummus, so I’ve decided to make that the first official recipe of Kung Fu Chef 2.0.