Back in Spain
19 October 2007

The food in Spain is, of course, different than in Paris, but the culture of food is also different. In Paris, food is everything, where in Spain, food is the vehicle for socialization (if that makes any sense). The food is more rustic here in Barcelona, with an emphasis on cured meats, cheeses, and table wines. The flavors are richer, but because of the intrinsic flavors in the inredients, not through the building-up of flavors like in French cuisine. I love Spain, but Paris really is the town for foodies. Spain is where you go to party.

I had traditional and neo-tapas several times, but it's kind of sad that even the Spanish are getting away from what tapas really are. They've become in Spain what they are in the States: "sexy" little bites that would never fit as a "top" on a glass of wine. But oh well, they certainly taste great!

Perhaps one of the most intersting situations was when we went to an open house at Angie's school: It was an event for the students, paid for by visiting businesses and entrepreneurs. The menu was so meat and cheese heavy, I loved being a guest, even if I was a crasher! And the interesting (sad) part was that the very expensive Iberican ham was barely touched by the otehr guests. I wanted to take a whole plate and fill my pockets! Back in the states a plate like that would have cost at least four times what they did here in Spain!

It's kind of sad that even the Spanish are getting away from what tapas really are

View from the National Catalan Musuem (near the Olympic stadium)
Denise and the very typical Spanish countryside
Seafood market in Barcelona
Ah, Paris
14 October 2007

Too much food, too much walking, and too much wine. That's what's going on here. But it's Paris, what else would you expect!

We arrived on Thursday morning after about 16 hours of travel that seemed to not take as long as you'd expect. I slept a good portion of the way here so that when we arrived I was able to minimize the effects of jet-lag. I was still tired, but not too badly.

Paris is amazing. There is so much great food here, of all different levels, I have suspended my dietary control and am eating everything in sight. It's definitely annoying everyone, because I'm already on second breakfast before anyone else has had first! I'm keeping a detailed log of my eating, though, which maybe I'll post later.

The high point of the trip so far (other than seeing Angie and Eric for the fisrt time in six months!) has been the private tours with French professionals. I would highly recommend this to anyone spending more than two days in Paris. The two people we met were definitely at the top of their game culinarily; in fact one of them had just won a major award for his baguette. The program is called Meeting the French, which offers small tours, of about an hour, to meet with French professionals and learn all about what they do. I signed up for a chocolate-maker and a bread-maker.

The chocolate maker's name was Jean-Charles Rochoux. His specialty is molded chocolates, which initially didn't sound that interesting, but he was the only chocolatier available. When we met with him, though, I'm very glad I did. This chef is incredibly passionate about what he does and it's very clear in the work he turns out. His little shop would have been right at home in Manhattan along side another high-end place like Tiffany's. The shop was very small and extremely elegant, the kind of place that just screams "pricey", but after hacing tasted his work, it's worth every penny.

Chef Rochoux recently landed a contract with Maker's Mark to make their exclusive truffle, and he came up with the brillant idea to make a version of their seal in chocolate right on the candy. So you've got this little rectanlge of dark chocolate with this bright red "seal". It's incredibly attractive and it tastes like you wouldn't believe. The rest of his products are of similar caliber: perfectly flavored and seasoned, no matter what the additional flavors. One chocolate bar was seasoned with spices (cinnamon, ginger, cloves) and I could taste each individual spice as it progressed across my palate.

Later in the tour, after seeing his operation, I asked about the cream he uses in the truffles. He had some available and he let me try some. This stuff was pure fat: Creamy, silky, slow-pastuerized; it's clear to me that the smoothness of his truffles comes from the chocolate he uses as well as this high-end European cream. I wish this cream were something I could afford at Starry Nights!

The next tour was at a boulanger-patissier named Arnaud Delmontel. Chef Delmontel recently won a major award for his baguette, best in Paris (and recently met with the new Prime Minister about his bread), I think it was. He was just as lively and personable as Chef Rochoux. At this visit, I had even more questions and was thrilled to get to see his operation. Just like Parisian Star, only smaller. He had one of his sous chefs making a croquembouche while we were there. He was almost done with it, and was adding the final details: A hand-made sugar rose which was quite impressive and detailed.

Chef Delmontel had spent time in the States, too, working at Whole Foods in Minnesota a number of years ago. He'd wanted to stay in the US, but couldn't because of work permits. So he came back to Paris and started this bakery. His desserts are all made in-house, as well as all of his breads, and it's clear that he loves what he does. I would have loved to work for him for a day or so!

Tomorrow we leave for Barcelona. We've seen just about all the sites here (from the outside in most cases) and we're getting Euro-fatigue. OUr first meal was very expensive, and we keep getting cheaper each meal. Tonights dinner was about 1/3 as expensive as our firt dinner!

My favorite part of Paris this time around is just how available great food and ingredients are. Seems like just about no matter where you are, walk two blocks and then you'll see a great brasserie or boulangerie. I love this city!

I have suspended my dietary control and am eating everything in sight

Location of my very first dinner in Paris, back in 1999.
The most recognized monument in the world.
Notre Dame: recently cleaned and restored
On our way across the pond
10 October 2007

Finally, vacation time is here! Denise and I are going to France and Spain for a short vacation to meet our friends, the Bultemeiers. I have been looking forward to this vacation for weeks. Mostly because I've been working my ass off lately (yesterday was a short day, only 13 hours), but also because this is the first time for me to go to Paris as a chef. I wonder how I will perceive the city now through the eyes of my new profession. I hope to become inspired by what I see and taste, so that when I get home again me approach to cooking is invigorated.

Not that I've lost my enjoyment for this new career, far from it. But on some days, it has become a j-o-b. Meaning that I go to work, get done what I have to, then go home. It's not always like that, but I'm becoming comfortable with how things go. Maybe that's a good thing!

I'm looking to gain some motivation about high-quality cooking, fresh ingredients, precision, and detail, and just an overall love for the craft. As silly as it may seem, that animated movie, Ratatouille, was very inspiring to me. The way that the kitchen was portrayed as a temple of precision, inspiration, and a drive for improvement still gets me going today. The culture of the kitchen was evident in all the characters and storyline.

Since I've never worked in a restaurant kitchen myself, I haven't really had that culture of the kitchen instilled into me. Gabe tried while I was his apprentice, but it wasn't the same. The closest I have come was while working for Brian O'Connor a couple nights at Madison Park Cafe. Being a restaurant chef still holds some allure for me: the regularity, the high standards, the precision, the camraderie, and even the strict brigade system (but yes, I realize I wouldn't be happy with the hours, stress, etc). And it's funny to think that even though I am becoming an accomplished chef and business owner of my own at Starry Nights, in the restaurant system I'd be lucky to work the line. I would probably rate as an experienced day-prep cook.

So in Paris this time around, I am going to keep my eyes open, my tastebuds working, and my mind focused. I am heading into the culinary capital of the western world which is as intimidating as going to the Shaolin Temple to study kung fu. I'll only be there a couple days, but it's going to be a lot of fun!

I have been looking forward to this vacation for weeks

Improvement
8 October 2007

I made chocolate mousse again today. The result was good, and very nearly chunk-free. Definitely servable. Chocolate mousse: 10; Chef Matt: 2.

But hey, at least my score is going up now.

Chocolate mousse: 10; Chef Matt: 2

My first fondant-covered cake
4 October 2007

I finally got the chance to cover a real cake with fondant. I had never done this before and I didn't have any adult supervision. I had seen Dan do it several times before, and of course I had seen it on TV plenty of times so I knew the dangers.

The cake was a 6" round anniversary cake, complimentary for a wedding cake client from last year. I didn't have anyone else available to do it, so it fell to me to get it done. It wasn't that hard, really, I just didn't let myself focus on what could go wrong. I simply told myself: Roll out the fondant, drape the cake, make it smooth.

It didn't come out perfect, but it was passable. There were some wrinkles in it, but that's to be expected my first time out. The tricky part is getting the 2D fondant to cover a round 3D cake. Where it drapes, the fondant will want to bunch, so it's necessary to make sure the draping is spread out. That's the part I didn't get wuite right.

I also need some real fondant tools. There are plastic paddles that will help smooth it out, which I had to do by hand this time. That warmed the buttercream underneath the fondant which made it harder to make smooth.

But in the end, I got it done and the client was pleased!

I simply told myself: Roll out the fondant, drape the cake, make it smooth.