Archive for February 2012

Peanut sauce

Warning about recipes. Read this first!

PEANUT SAUCE
Yield: About 2 C

INGREDIENTS
1 fl oz Peanut oil
2 tbl Red curry paste
12 fl oz Coconut milk
6 oz Peanuts, ground
3 oz Brown sugar
3 oz Peanut butter, creamy
2 tbl Fish sauce
4 tbl Cilantro, minced

METHOD
1. In a small saucepan, heat the peanut oil over medium heat. When hot, add the red curry paste and sautee until aromatic and slightly browned.

2. Carefully pour in half the coconut milk and whisk until smooth. Add the remaining coconut milk, peanuts, brown sugar, and peanut butter. Stir to combine.

3. Taste the peanut sauce at this point. Evaluate for salty, spicy, and sweet. Adjust as necessary. Only add the fish sauce if you need it, which you may not. I rarely need to add it due to the peanuts and peanut butter I use.

4. Heat thoroughly, being very careful to not let the sauce boil; it will separate and become greasy.

5. When hot, add cilantro, stir, and serve.

NOTES
Red curry paste – The key to this sauce. I do use a commercially produced paste (Mae Ploy), but it’s amazing. I also have my own red curry paste recipe that’s very good, but it’s just a hassle to make, considering the commercial alternative is about $4 for two cups.

Brown sugar vs palm sugar – If you know me at all, and are familiar with Thai cuisine, you’ll be wondering why I cheat and use brown sugar instead of the traditional and authentic palm sugar. The answer is simple: Cost, both time and money. I already have tons of brown sugar around the shop so it’s very easy to scoop and go, whereas the palm sugar is needed in very few recipes AND it has to be chopped off a large block before using.

The flavor profiles of brown sugar vs palm sugar are very similar. Both are sweet and have a slight bitterness to them from molasses. The palm sugar is more mellow in its sweetness, so if you try this recipe with palm sugar, you’ll probably need to increase it by 25% or so. But taste as you go, once it’s in, there’s no removing it!

Fish sauce – For the love of god: Turn on your brain before making this sauce. This dish is salt with salty, more salt, in a sauce of coconut milk. As will ALL salts, taste your dish before you add the salt, regardless of what the dish is. You may not need the salt.

COMMENTARY
This recipe is one of my most popular menu items of all time. Chocolate Truffle cake, chocolate chip cookies, peanut sauce, and pesto-alfredo sauce are the top four delicious items, in that order.

And so you now have the secret. But I believe it’s more than just the recipe that makes a dish delicious. It’s the chef who executes the recipe, and through that natural interpretation someone else’s peanut sauce will differ from mine just enough that I’m always going to have a job. I’m not worried about it.

Tyropita

Warning about recipes. Read this first!

TYROPITA
Yield: About 50 pieces

INGREDIENTS
6 oz Spinach, raw
1/4 ea Onion, brunoise
1 oz Butter
1 oz AP flour
8 fl oz Milk
2 ea Egg yolks, whisked
1/2 tsp Nutmeg
12 oz Feta, crumbled
2 tsp Fresh oregano, minced
tt Pepper
1 # Butter
1 box Filo dough (16oz; about 18 sheets)

METHOD
1. In a dry saute pan (no oil), wilt the spinach over high heat. Add a little salt to help facilitate the wilting. Saute until completely wilted, then remove to a cutting board and roughly chop.

2. In a small sauce pan, over medium heat, melt the first measure of butter, then sweat the onions. When softened, add the flour and stir to make a white roux. This is extremely hot so don’t touch!

3. When the roux is simmering around the edges, slowly drizzle in about 1/3 of the milk while whisking. Yes, use a whisk to break up all the clumps. Then slowly drizzle in the remaining milk.

4. Bring to a boil for a few minutes until thickened, then remove from heat.

5. In a medium bowl, whisk the egg yolks, then slowly drizzle in the white sauce (bechamel) while constantly whisking. Add the nutmeg, feta, oregano, and spinach. Season to taste with the pepper (you probably won’t need salt).

6. In a small sauce pan, melt the second measure of butter, but don’t let it boil. remove from heat.

7. Unwrap the filo dough and lay out one sheet on your work surface. Carefully brush with butter, then lay out another filo sheet on top. Brush with butter again.

8. Cut in to 6 strips and scoop about 2 tsp of the filling on the end of each strip. Fold/roll each strip in to triangles (like folding the flag).

9. Lay out the folded tyropita on a sheet pan lined with parchment, and brush each pastry with more butter. Repeat steps 7-9 until all the filo is gone.

10. Bake at 375F for about 15 minutes until the pastry is puffy and golden.

NOTES
Filo is cheap, so buy TWO boxes in case there are damaged sheets in one box. Be careful, but no one’s going to die if you tear one or two.

If you need to, you can freeze these things IQF-style after you roll them and brush them with butter. Bake them off as needed.

COMMENTARY
Wow, no commentary this time. I wonder if I’m feeling ok?

Kitchen etiquette for diners

If you’ve ever wanted to “meet the chef” or see the kitchen, this rant is for you.

NEVER wander back into the kitchen on your own, without an invitation or an escort. I don’t care who you think you are, we don’t want you there.

Sure, I get that you want to feel like a big man, or a popular host, or whatever, just because you know the chef and you want to show off for your guests by being “in”. Don’t do it. You’re not actually making the chef happy, you’re in fact guaranteeing that the chef and staff actually thinks less of you, as in “What kind of jag-off thinks he can just waltz back into my kitchen unwanted?” And what do you think that attitude is going to do to the overall level of service you get for the rest of the evening?

Not even other professional chefs are welcomed uninvited, but of course, if you’re a professional I would expect you to know the industry etiquette (sadly, though, many professional chefs are even bigger assholes than our guests).

That said, however, we chefs are extremely proud of our kitchens, our team, and the amazing work and effort that goes on here. And we like to show off and be admired just as much as the next guy. The way to do this is to ask your server or one of the floor staff if you can get a tour of the kitchen and meet the chef. If you put on even the slightest veneer of humility, just about every chef will graciously invite you back.

For me, if you ask ahead of time, I can make sure the place is clean, orderly, and safe for non-professionals. Getting invited back to the kitchen is getting to peek behind the curtain, and see how things really work. I know that if I have admiring guests, I love to show them everything and let them sample things, and talk with them about their own cooking experiences. I will talk their ear off! Guests who know and love food as much as professionals are a breed apart, and it’s always great to connect with someone who you’re serving food to.

But so help me god, if you waltz back into the kitchen like you own the place, you definitely run the risk of getting bodily thrown out!